Fashion has always been a magpie, picking up shiny bits from cultures around the world. That’s not new. But in our hyper-connected, socially conscious world, that borrowing is under a microscope. The conversation has shifted from simple “inspiration” to a heated debate between cultural appropriation and cultural appreciation.

Honestly, it can feel like a minefield. One day you’re wearing a print you love, the next you’re seeing a viral tweet calling it out. So, what’s the real difference? And how can the industry—and we as wearers—navigate this with respect? Let’s dive in.

The Core Conflict: Taking vs. Honoring

At its heart, this is about power and context. Cultural appropriation happens when elements of a marginalized culture are taken by a dominant culture without permission, often stripped of their original meaning and commercialized. It’s a one-way transaction that reinforces historical inequalities.

Cultural appreciation, on the other hand, is about seeking to understand, honor, and celebrate a culture on its own terms. It involves a respectful exchange, credit, and often, a benefit that flows back to the source community.

Think of it like this: appropriation is taking a sacred ceremonial headdress and wearing it as a festival costume. Appreciation is learning about its spiritual significance, perhaps from an Indigenous artisan, and supporting their work directly if they choose to share it.

Spotting the Difference: A Quick Guide

Cultural Appropriation	Cultural Appreciation
Removes context & sacred meaning	Seeks to understand context & meaning
Profits a dominant group/company	Credits & compensates source communities
Treats culture as a passing trend	Engages with culture in a sustained way
Often uses stereotypes	Highlights diversity within the culture
Defensive when questioned (“It’s just fashion!”)	Open to dialogue and correction

When Fashion Crosses the Line: Real-World Pain Points

We’ve all seen the headlines. A major luxury house selling a “rasta” collection with no ties to Rastafarianism. A fast-fashion brand mass-producing knockoffs of traditional Indigenous patterns. The pain point here is deep—it’s about erasure. When a symbol of identity, resistance, or spirituality is turned into a mere aesthetic, it can feel like the people behind it are being erased, too.

And here’s the thing: it’s not about policing personal style or saying we can only wear clothes from our own background. It’s about intent, impact, and imbalance. The imbalance is key. A non-South Asian person wearing a sari to an Indian wedding, invited and guided by friends? That’s often seen as appreciation. That same sari, ripped off by a designer, slapped on a model for “boho vibes” with zero credit? That’s the problem.

Pathways to Appreciation: How to Do It Right

So, how do we move from a model of extraction to one of exchange? It starts with mindful practices. For brands, this isn’t just a PR exercise; it needs to be baked into the process.

For Designers & Brands

• Collaborate, don’t copy. Partner with artisans and cultural custodians. Pay them fairly, give them co-credit, and make them part of the story.
• Do the homework. Understand the history and significance of what you’re referencing. Is it sacred? Is it a symbol of status? This knowledge is non-negotiable.
• Be transparent. Clearly communicate the inspiration and the collaborators. Use your platform to educate your audience, not just sell to them.
• Build long-term relationships. Move beyond one-off collections. Support the community’s craft and economy sustainably.

For Us as Consumers

Our power is in our wallets and our curiosity. Before buying something inspired by another culture, ask a few questions:

1. Who made this? Is the brand or seller from that culture? If not, are they collaborating with or crediting someone who is?
2. What’s the story? Does the product description explain the significance, or is it just labeled “ethnic” or “tribal”?
3. Is this respectful? Am I wearing something with deep religious or ceremonial meaning out of context? When in doubt, maybe choose something else.
4. Can I learn more? Use the item as a starting point for understanding, not just accessorizing.

The Nuance & The Future of Global Fashion Influences

Let’s be real—this isn’t always black and white. Cultures blend and evolve naturally, especially in diaspora communities. The kimono-inspired robe you bought might be a point of pride for a Japanese designer modernizing tradition. The line can feel fuzzy, but that’s why the conversation is so crucial.

The future of ethical fashion inspiration looks less like a colonial treasure hunt and more like a global potluck. Everyone brings something to the table, shares it with consent, and everyone leaves nourished. We’re starting to see this with the rise of brands that are built on authentic collaboration—not just taking a pattern, but sharing the platform and the profits.

That said, the goal isn’t a bland, homogenous world of fashion where we’re all scared to be inspired. Quite the opposite. It’s about creating a richer, more accurate tapestry where influence is acknowledged, context is valued, and people are not just muses but active participants. It’s about moving from a monologue to a dialogue.

In the end, fashion is a language. It tells stories. The question is, who gets to tell the story, and who gets paid—or erased—in the telling? The most beautiful trends are those that carry respect woven into every thread.